Messerschmitt
Bf-109E (Emil) was main German fighter of early WWII. Bf-109E has provided success for "Luftwaffe" in flights above Poland, Scandinavia
and Northwest Europe during the period between September, 1939 and June,
1940.
In real life Bf-109E has seen a number of modifications, stretching from E-0 to E-9 with different airframes, armament, engines, and bomb racks, etc.
The Bf-109E we have got in game is placed at tier 5 of German fighter branch, following tier 4 Bf-109C and leading to tier 6 Bf-109G. Its draft module layout is represented below.
As you might know, the following main modules are currently upgradable in WoWP:
So for the aforementioned Emil it would like the following:
Two pairs (airframe+engine) and lots of armament options. For this particular plane we have predetermined the following presets (upgrade options):
Which one should be broken down next? P-51?
In real life Bf-109E has seen a number of modifications, stretching from E-0 to E-9 with different airframes, armament, engines, and bomb racks, etc.
The Bf-109E we have got in game is placed at tier 5 of German fighter branch, following tier 4 Bf-109C and leading to tier 6 Bf-109G. Its draft module layout is represented below.
As you might know, the following main modules are currently upgradable in WoWP:
- airframe
- engine
- armament
So for the aforementioned Emil it would like the following:
Two pairs (airframe+engine) and lots of armament options. For this particular plane we have predetermined the following presets (upgrade options):
- Bf 109V14 (stock - 2x7.92 MG-17, and 2x20mm MG-FF)
- Bf 109V15 (getting an extra 20mm MG-FF)
- Bf 109E-3 (2x7.92 MG-17, 20mm MG-FF, and 20mm MG-FF/M)
- Bf 109E-4 (2x7.92 MG-17 and 2x20mm MG-FF/M)
- Bf 109F-2 (2nd engine, 2nd airframe, 2x7.92 MG-17, 15mm MG 151/15)
- Bf 109F-4 (2nd engine, 2nd airframe, 2x7.92 MG-17, 20mm MG 151/20)
Which one should be broken down next? P-51?
Who cares if it was a good plane,when your done with your ner....i mean balancing it will be a piece of shit.
ReplyDeleteThere is still hope, mate.
DeleteWill you say that for the German tanks and your Biased Russian Charts you call "Credible?"
DeleteWhich charts?
DeleteKeep up good work! :)
ReplyDeleteYes, the P51 would be nice. Curious as to how you'll present it.
ReplyDelete... the German machine guns were in calibre 7,92 mm, not in 7,62 (.30 ) like for an example the Russians.
ReplyDeleteSorry, fixed that in the text. The pic is correct.
DeleteNext, how about the Spitfire? Hurricane?
ReplyDelete>Which one should be broken down next? P-51?
ReplyDeleteYes how about the P-51...
P-51s in game currently are far from accurate from a stats perspective.
http://www.nationalmuseum.af.mil/factsheets/factsheet.asp?id=2214
How very coincidental that the Bf-109E was covered first in this break down. Last I check there was nothing but Bf-109Es flying around and a few hard heads in the P-51s wondering why the Cadillac of the sky turned into a Yugo.
In-game we have got 3 P-51s, stretching from tier 6 to tier 8.
DeleteI like this new approach for plane research.
ReplyDeleteI tried out the setups at tier4.
You can go full firepower but you will lose agility and top speed, or you can go with less or smaller guns and get the best speed.
For me manuver > firepower. Or a good balance.
I would like to see something similar for WoT in the near future.
Maybe include gearbox as a new module and there you would be able to set or tune the tank to have better acceleration or better top speed, or something in the middle of the two, to fit your play stile.
For example: Tiger H with a gearbox setup would be able to reach the historical 38km/h but would lose its great acceleration if you chose this and turn rate.
More optional guns for tanks, so it would channge from last gun is the best to a more variety. (I know some tanks have some option but only a few.)
What do you think Overlord? Would this be possible to implement in wot too? (like the gearbox example)
The Tiger was made to go 38 km/hr If you wanted to upgrade it would need to be able to go faster than 38 Plus with physics, Tanks can break their speed limit if going down a hill, What I think would be nice is to get rid of speed lmit altogether and let tanks go as fast as their power/weight ration allows them :D
DeleteHere comes a Maus...
Downhill...
Outspeeding that T-50-2...
Going 1000km/hr...
At me....
*CRASH*
wakes up in a pit with a few other tanks
The Tiger is just one of the other German tanks i'm annoyed with the nerfing... The tiger has no comparable armor... Great acceleration... Powerful Sniper... Designed to fight Lighter tanks, But the armor thing makes it so much worse than other things so It needs to be able to go historical speed
The M48 could do 60 km/h on roads. 48Km/h on all else. They should really change it by altering the passability numbers.
DeleteAnd IS-7 could go 60km/h, and IS-4 - up to 42km/h.
DeleteBtw speed limits will be affected by the new physics. Some were able to reach 90 km/h using Hellcat.
Well War Thunder still better.
ReplyDeleteNo it's not.
DeleteIts still in beta and its already P2W.
Better optymalisation, better graphic, better modes and better steering - yes it's better. It's no shame that rivals are better, WG must simply improve defecting things especially steering.
DeleteSame voices (about P2W) I have heard about WOT so you can put that opinion in your shoes.
WoT, by all means, is not a P2W game, even in its current state. And we have got planes, how to improve the situation by a mile (spoiler!).
DeleteAs for WoWP vs WT, always eager to listen out the feedback on both. :)
ähm planes or plans?
Deleteimportant fact here ;)
i´m active wowp player and got into beta on warthunder too. in some parts it is really better, especially graphics!
but gameplay is easier and more arcade in wowp what fits for a wider player base, war thunder is pretty strange to fly with joystick (wowp was tough to setup also) but in wowp youve fast pacing action, in war thunder you fly 2min till you see a enemy from close and then you get oneshoted ;)
We have got both plans and planes. :)
DeleteThanks for the feedback.
@naiboo " in war thunder you fly 2min till you see a enemy from close and then you get oneshoted"
DeleteYup, luckily it's balanced (at least in arcade mode) with WT's analogue of garage battles :) So you got 6 min of flying and you're oneshotted 3 times :P
@overlord "As for WoWP vs WT, always eager to listen out the feedback on both. :)"
Glad to hear that :)
My statement about WoWP vs WT wasn't intented to grumble about WoWP, it's really nice game but steering makes it's more difficult to beginners, thing which not happen in WT.
Hey Overlord,
ReplyDeleteWhen can we expect a new beta build to hit the servers? I am hoping for a few changes to the flight model based on the feedback we gave.
Thank you.
There is a minor delay with WoWP 0.3.3 update, we expect it to arrive in approx 2 weeks from now.
Deletehey overlord
Deleteppl are eager to know if there will be a wipe at that patch.
also we would love to have some patch note to prepare us for whats coming, would that be possible to get soon in the appropriate forum section?
thanks
No wipe upon this update. Ok will do.
Deletethx a lot
Deleteyou planning on making the possibilty of mounting a radial engine ( i believe they fitted a BMW 801 or smth. like that in one 109)?
ReplyDeleteNo, not planning that one.
DeleteWith the wheel removed from your bike, One of the most commonbicycle carbon wheelsbicycle repairs. I personally recommend replacing a tube when you get a leak, but that is not always possible. If done properly, a patch will work just fine. Here’s how it’s done.
DeleteRequired Tools
inspect the outer surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread.
Remove Tire
Remove the valve cap and fully deflatecarbon bicycle wheelthe tube by depressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
After you have removed one side of the tire, the ICAbike01 other side should come off very easily.
Now remove the tube from the tire, and trycarbon fiber bicycle frameto keep track of where it was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
Listen carefully to the entire circumference of the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
Once you’ve found the leak, take note ofzipp 404whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.
If the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way.
If the hole was on the inner side of the tube, inspect your entire rim to make sure there are no sharp burrs in the metal, and that the rim tape is properly protecting t