Purpose of this blog

Dmitry Yudo aka Overlord, jack of all trades
David Lister aka Listy, Freelancer and Volunteer

Monday, September 24, 2012

[WoT] Doyle, Kubinka, and Much More. Part 3: Driving the Legend

Back to our topic. What was the guy there actually doing with MS-1 tank?

Check this video to find out (sorry for my camera skills, I'm not that experienced with it :) ).


MS-1 is approx 80-year-old vehicle, truly a grandfather of all Soviet tanks.
See here for more.


To be continued...

25 comments:

  1. Thx, nice video. When i was in Kubinka, i see MS-1, but i think it's can't moove, but now i see it's can ).
    Thx again, wait another part.

    ReplyDelete
  2. If the ms-1 sounded like that ingame, it would be my No1 tank. now you have the sample, it should be easy right ? :)
    Suggestion for the game. Have engine starting up sounds with an engine start key. this would also show who was afk. It would also be a nice addition if your engine gets damaged. you would have to press the engine start button to start it up again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yeah, now it sounds like an over-sized lawnmower...

      Delete
  3. Replies
    1. WG buffs on german tanks are a joke :P

      Delete
    2. Maus itself is a joke? What is that supposed to mean?

      Delete
    3. A bit oversized to my tank taste

      Delete
  4. I expected a little more traverse speed. 8P

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Buff is difficult here. Technical issues, you know.

      Delete
  5. Hopefully one day I'll get to step foot in Kubinka. It's great to see that they maintain such an important little vehicle.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Give it a shot, it's easier to visit now than ever before

      Delete
    2. In the future I will. For now being a disabled vet doesn't afford me enough to get the plane ticket to fly half way around the world. :P

      Delete
  6. Didn't know MS-1 could only go forward and backward. Thanks for the video! :)

    Just put the MS-1 facing west and it is good to go. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Heh it's remind me an issue in Warsaw trams - in old trams (from 60') heaters for passengers can be turned on and off only during mainetaince works so practically they turning in on during autumn and turning off during spring.

      Delete
  7. Splendid video Overlord, many thanks. Looking forward to the next blog update very much.

    ReplyDelete
  8. 6.25, in soviet russia, we park tanks at the wrong place instead of cars!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey, it's not even a T-34, this one is really hard to traverse. :)

      Delete
    2. looks also a dificult clutch to operate smoothly, something quite normal for vehicles of that era

      Delete
  9. Overlord are there any plans down at kubinka to make the is 4 and is 7 drivable in the future, perhaps the maus and the other german beasts too ? :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haven't heard of such plans. Would be fun though!

      Delete
    2. A few different patch sizes,sandpapercarbon fiber rimsor a metal scraper, and a tube of glue), a set of tire levers, and an air pump.
      Inspect Tire
      With the wheel removed from your bike, inspect ICAbike01 the outer ICAbike01 surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread.
      Remove Tir
      Remove the valve cap and fully deflate the tube bycarbon bike rimsdepressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
      Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
      After you have removed one side of the tire, the other side should come off very easily.
      Inspect Tube
      Now remove the tube from the tire, and try to keepcarbon bicycle rimstrack of where it was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
      Listen carefully to the entire circumferenceof the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
      Once you’ve found the leak, take note of whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.
      If the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way.
      If the hole was on the inner side of the tube,inspect yourzipp 404entire rim to make sure there are no sharp burrs in the metal, and that the rim tape is properly protecting the tube from your spoke ends.
      Now that the rim and tire are clear, it’s time to patch the tube. Select an appropriate sized patch for the hole. Use the sandpaper or scraper provided in your kit to buff the surface of the tube for an area a bit larger than the patch. You need to buff the tube so that it is no longer shiny. If the molding line is running along the area where the patch is to be applied, you must sand it down completely, or it will provide an air channel. Once buffed, avoid touching that area with your fingers.
      Apply a dab of rubber cement, and then spread it into a thin coat, using your cleanest finger. Work quickly. You want a thin, smooth coat of cement; if you keep fiddling with it as it begins to dry, you’ll risk making it lumpy. The thinner the cement, the faster it will dry. It is very important to allow the cement to dry completely.
      Peel the foil from the patch and press the patch onto the tube firmly, squeezing the patch tightly onto the tube.

      Delete