Some "archive stuff". The image below represents penetration tests of 8.8 cm PaK (Germany), 122mm D-25T (USSR), and 152mm howitzer ML-20 (USSR) done against IS-3 prototype by Soviets.
IS-3 wasn't impressed at all.
Text above the image:
Front plate of IS-3 is practically immune to contemporary tank guns. The durability of welded plates ensures the required level of protection.
After 7 hits of 88-152mm rounds, the front plate is still good to go.
Text under the image:
Mark 16: hit by 88mm round from 330m.
Marks 17 and 18: hits by 122mm and 152mm rounds respectively from 690m.
IS-3 may nt be impressed bt IS-3 is impressive for sure :)
ReplyDeletebt why has it not got the beak in front?
a lil off topic:-
can u confirm aotoloaders for USA
(t57 & t58)?
1. Its a prototype with "flat" front.
Delete2. Not yet.
Thats obvious that there will be US tanks with autoloaders. Introducing tanks with oscillating turrets without autoloaders would be very... eccentric :) Oscilating turrets where designed specially to enable revolver loaders. It was the only reason to make such strange turrets. And we know that there will be at least 2 US tanks with oscillating turrets in the game - T69 and T57, cause their screenshots have already leaked.
DeleteBut it is very possible that there will be no T58. 155 mm autoloader in fully rotating turret is a little too much, even for X tier heavy tank. So far T57 was unofficially presented as X tier heavy.
After seeing how bad french autoloaders were nerfed to the point in-drum shell "reload" is as long as a non-autoloader gun's reload (amx 13/75-90) and drum reload is too long compared to the "benefit", I do not see why anyone would want to play american tanks with autoloader.
DeleteSo the autoloaders are not restricted to French line anymore? Good! Still w8ting for an autoloader for Skoda T-25.
DeleteLooks like number 16 did better then the others. :)
ReplyDeleteI gues that this prototype was too nose heavy because of the armor thickness and got scraped?
What thickness it had? 140-160mm?
What weapon hit at mark 19?
ReplyDeleteyeah .. prototype IS-3 was so awesome that it never made into production
ReplyDeleteand because of it's awesomeness, they decided to pus some extra plates on that front armor .. you know, just because
that looks alot like an IS-4.
DeleteOvi,
ReplyDeletecan you please go and slap the EU community team? We still don't have a Q%A thread after you left!
Thanks!
WAItm
DeleteThey piss on the community and don't even tell us it'd be rain.
Sorry to hear that, guys. Ask here, if you have got Qs. I'm always ready to reply, if I can.
DeleteWhat noobs!:D Aim for LFP for pen:P
ReplyDeletePretty nice how PaK still harmed the plate more than the russian guns. Even without the fitting ammo. IS there a better photo to actually see if the 122mm scratched something?:D
DeleteThats the gun the Tiger H and Tiger P use in game right?
ReplyDelete203 penetration goes through the IS-3 front easily if I remember correctly...
Will that change anything?
After last changes not so easily, even on angled IS3 (when armor is pendincular to shot line) you got nice chances to get bounced.
DeleteIf the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way.
ReplyDeleteOne of the most commonbicycle carbon wheelsbicycle repairs. I personally recommend replacing a tube when you get a leak, but that is not always possible. If done properly, a patch will work just fine. Here’s how it’s done.
Required Tools
inspect the outer surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread.
Remove Tire
Remove the valve cap and fully deflatecarbon bicycle wheelthe tube by depressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
After you have removed one side of the tire, the ICAbike01 other side should come off very easily.
Now remove the tube from the tire, and trycarbon fiber bicycle frameto keep track of where it was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
Listen carefully to the entire circumference of the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
Once you’ve found the leak, take note ofzipp 404whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.