Wednesday, June 20, 2012

[ALL] WG at E3

Didn't manage to visit E3 this year, however got some pics from the team.

The current show was the 17th.


WG booth was among the biggest ones, comrising a small cinema, 2 gaming zones (World of Tanks and World of Warplanes), VIP zone, and a few press / meeting rooms.



Visitors had a chance to either experience the power of tank battles or the drive of aerial combat. Or both. :)


And even win some prizes from the dev team. )


This bird (P-51 mustang) is only 25% smaller than the real one.


E3 girls.


22 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wow!! what a beautiful.... planes :)

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hot Gi....planes u have there B)

    ReplyDelete
  4. its true that you are thinking in buff E-100? Its true that you are going to put a 170mm which only use HE for this tank?

    Are you going to nerf patton, in the statistics it is very superior to other mediums?
    And what about T-54 and E-50 this mediums figure underpower in statistics?

    ReplyDelete
  5. Nice girls.

    And one question. Is there a chance for overal nerf of penetration to bring back old beta times where armor had some use? I lost a feeling of playing a tank game, its more like slower CS when almost everythink penetrates everything regulary.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That would have to go with a serious rebalancing of arty and light-armored tanks. Other than that, that would be cool... We might even see some maneuvering that does not involve cover and corners. After all, we are supposed to be driving "heavy armor"...

      Delete
    2. Hmmm, I must be playing some other World of Tanks. Armor still has use. Still the best penetrating gun is BL-10. And currently high pen cannons are better only by less then 10 mm then S-70 from IS-7 or old IS-4. Of course I am talking about normal ammo, not gold shells.

      Delete
  6. E3 is not about games, its about good looking scantily clad women.
    TL;DR More pictures of booth babes & less non-booth babe stuff.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hey Ovi! :)

    Some rumors say that germany will even get 3-4 td lines..how much can you confirm already?


    Dont forget! Patton Rulz! :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thats not rumors. It is potential number of German TD's lines which can be built from known vehicles and blueprints. This number was stated by SerB (boss of WG devs) and later confirmed by Ovi. But they both didn't say that they will make so many lines. So far, sure is only second line and I wouldn't expect third one fast, because many nations have their tech trees in poorer shape then Germans.

      Delete
  8. I wish I could ride in one of those....
    I mean the plane... *pokerface*

    ReplyDelete
  9. With all due respect OL:

    WHAT THE HELL WERE YOU GUYS THINKING WITH THIS PATCH.

    Game modes = crap
    Removed team alter volume = crap
    0% CRITS, still everywhere = crap

    Seriously. I've spent a year playing this game and a good chuck of cash: this is the first time I've seriously considering quitting.

    Why the hell did you not listen to the feedback regarding the game modes?

    I don't know why WG wants to shoot themselves in the foot...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. with the 0 crits is totally true, i think the modes are very good but if we have lemmings we can expect all idiot think that their are german TDs in defense mode ;)

      Delete
    2. Mods are not bad, but only for tank companies were are company commanders and people can use some tactics. In randoms this mods are bad idea, it is necessary to have more teamplay to play then corectly which is impossible in randoms. Also many people don't know what to do in them.

      But I am starting to understand this poor teamplay in randoms. Yesterday I found out that some player gave his account to his 4,5 y old son and he had there for example Obj. 704. Such young kid in 704 is a big problem for his team. And there is no chance that he will anyhow cooperate with team. Most funny is that father was punished for it. Son sold all his tanks...

      Delete
  10. Overlord, can we get those girls in our hangars in WoWP? ;) (or at least some pin-up girl poster on walls)

    ReplyDelete
  11. Bigger pics with girls???

    ReplyDelete
  12. Overlord, when your entry about Clan Wars future?

    ReplyDelete
  13. Videos of the E3 Stream at WG's booth Featuring mainly WoT.

    Playlist with Videos #1-11:
    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5D740C70CC84FE71&feature=view_all

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. A patch kit (a few different patch sizes, [url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/carbon-bike-frame-fork/carbon-road-bike-frames/]carbon road frames[/url]sandpaper or a metal scraper, and a tube of glue), a set of tire levers, and an air pump.
      Inspect Tire
      With the wheel removed from your bike, inspect the outer ICAbike01 surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread.
      Remove Tir
      Remove the valve cap and fully deflate the[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/]carbon fibre bike frames[/url] tube by depressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
      Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
      After you have removed one side of the tire, the other side should come off very easily.
      Inspect Tube
      Now remove the tube from the tire, and try to keep track of where it was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
      Listen carefully to the entire circumference [url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/carbon-bike-frame-fork/]china carbon frames[/url]of the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
      Once you’ve found the leak, take note of whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.
      If the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way.
      If the hole was on the inner side of the tube,[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/]zipp 404[/url]inspect your entire rim to make sure there are no sharp burrs in the metal, and that the rim tape is properly protecting the tube from your spoke ends.
      Now that the rim and tire are clear, it’s time to patch the tube. Select an appropriate sized patch for the hole. Use the sandpaper or scraper provided in your kit to buff the surface of the tube for an area a bit larger than the patch. You need to buff the tube so that it is no longer shiny. If the molding line is running along the area where the patch is to be applied, you must sand it down completely, or it will provide an air channel. Once buffed, avoid touching that area with your fingers.
      Apply a dab of rubber cement, and then spread it into a thin coat, using your cleanest finger. Work quickly. You want a thin, smooth coat of cement; if you keep fiddling with it as it begins to dry, you’ll risk making it lumpy. The thinner the cement, the faster it will dry. It is very important to allow the cement to dry completely.
      Peel the foil from the patch and press the patch onto the tube firmly, squeezing the patch tightly onto the tube.

      Delete